Posted on October 30th, 2011 at 11:47 PM by admin

Hello guys, I need some help with the situation im in:

Im currently playing NL5 fullring on pokerstars, play about 40K hands per month, I know that at the stakes I play, RB will not be great, but as I move up in stakes rewards and rakeback will improve dramatically. Now supose I can make platinum star in March 2012, and end 2012 as supernova (objective is reaching supernova so i can buy 4000$ bonus and get the best value of FPPs, it means I will get most of my rake back only in the end of 2012)

Now supose I play on a euro site with a good RB deal, I have to play 6max because fullring traffic on euro sites suck, software might not be great as does action, but I will get the rakeback every month, being independent of the amount of rake I make.

What do you think of both cases? What should I choose?

|||rakeback should be the least of your concerns at 5NL, concentrate on winrate first.

|||Quote:Originally Posted by Aidanrakeback should be the least of your concerns at 5NL, concentrate on winrate first.Everything you post is solid. You should balance your range a bit more, just try telling people to move up where they respect your raises etc.

|||Quote:Originally Posted by jimjamjahaaEverything you post is solid. You should balance your range a bit more, just try telling people to move up where they respect your raises etc.Sweet gimmick bro

|||Quote:Originally Posted by AidanSweet gimmick bro [x] Balanced

|||im not talking directly about NL5, im talking about future choices and possibilities

|||Quote:Originally Posted by SMYGim not talking directly about NL5, im talking about future choices and possibilitiesIf we are talking about your future than your choice is pokerstars.

Get some cardrunners/deucescracked training
play 100k hands, move up in stakes
repeat 3x over
then you will see the RB profits from pokerstars roll in

October 30

Newbie
Posted on October 30th, 2011 at 10:53 PM by admin

I just wanted to stop and say hello to everyone as I just came across this website a few days ago and wish I had found it a lot sooner.. This is a very good website to get to know about poker. So i request you all to guide me and help me in posting forums.

|||Welcome to the Forums.

You’ve found the best site, bar none, if you’re serious about improving your game.

My advice would be to
- ask lots of questions; plenty of guys round here are happy to help
but
- read the stickies and FAQ first
- learn to use the SEARCH feature – it’s your doorway to a ton of goodness

Good Luck, and have fun.

|||ask this guy ^^^ lots of questions, he knows a lot and is very helpful

and welcome

|||Ask a lot play more and have some fun!

Posted on October 30th, 2011 at 7:33 PM by admin

Whenever i play SNGs and only 1 table at a time, i find that i can concentrate more and i always make notes. I also cash a more times than multitabling.
Whenever i multi table, i cash maybe once out of 5 tables. I find that I just wait for premiums all the time and can’t concentrate as well and make notes on players, so i guess HUDs are a must to multi table?

If so, are there any cheap HUDs? I dont really have the bankroll to be spending on a decent HUD.

Thanks!

Danny

|||$80 for holdem manager, and it will do you wonders.

Just dont totally rely on it; make sure you put the info and posiition to use. I would get holdem manager and there is a 15 day trial for free to see if you like it. If you are a solid player I would expect to see better results, its important to have it.

|||It’s easy to miss how many hands someone has played and has raised, not to mention his style, even when playing one table. The no-HUD play is a past thing from like year 2000 and has no business to be there in this time nor in the future. Some sites have tried it at these times and in the near past and they all failed.

|||Yes it will help.

but to multitable
Start with adding 1 table at a time, when u feel comtabel with it, add 1 more and 1 more etc. Just because some people can play 24 u dont have to.
I used to 22 table, but when i cut it down to just 6 it increased my $/hr, so its very depending on the person on how many tables u play, it also depends ur style.

|||HEM changed my life.

|||Reads >>>>>>> HUDs

If the player pool that you’re playing against is so small that you know their tendencies very well (And there are rarely new players). Or if you play just one or two tables then you won’t need a HUD. You’ll probably play better poker without. And learn faster. Players like BalugaWhale never use a HUD.

But when you play 6+ tables and in a huge player pool like 2/5/10NL then a HUD is a must.

Tracking software like HEM and PT3 has more advantages: it keeps track of your sessions and allows you to analyze your play afterwards. So if you have the money go and buy a tracker. You don’t HAVE to use the HUD

|||It’s a must if you want to keep up with the competition. Why not use every tool you can to your advantage?

|||Quote:Originally Posted by SHARPERFOCUSHEM changed my life.this +1

you will wonder how the hell you got by without the little beauty !

Posted on October 30th, 2011 at 7:27 PM by admin

Am I right in assuming we can use the deposit bonuses on multiple skins in the same network?

|||bump

|||Yes.

|||Lol thanks to someone actually replying

October 30

SHANOOBIGANS
Posted on October 30th, 2011 at 5:41 PM by admin

************
Saturday SHANOOBIGANS
NLHE
RPM Tournament>Private>League tab
14:00 RPM Lobby Time (3PM EDT / 8PM GMT)
$1.10
Password is: omgomg
***********

Scoreboard can be found here: Link

Anybody reading this thread is welcome to come and play

These games are created and promoted by individuals for social purposes and ARE NOT SANCTIONED BY or backed by 2+2 or any of its affiliates.

Two Plus Two Interactive, LLC Disclaimer Regarding “Prop Bet,” “Challenge,” and “Wager” Forum Posts
Quote:As noted in our terms and conditions, Two Plus Two is not legally responsible for the content of any post, or the accuracy of any information discussed or uploaded onto the Forums by the members. Opinions, advice, discussions, and all other information expressed by the members are those of the members themselves, and not necessarily shared by Two Plus Two.

This includes posts or threads relating to contests, tournaments, “prop bets,” challenges, and wagers between Forum members. Two Plus Two does not, and will not, “book” any bets or wagers between Forum members. Further, Two Plus Two takes no official part in any bets, wagers, related posts, or the discussion of any such transactions between Forum members.

Two Plus Two makes no guarantees or certifications whatsoever that any bets, wagers, or transactions discussed on the Forums are legal, safe, accurate, or sanctioned by Two Plus Two in any way. You rely on such information at your own risk. As such, Two Plus Two will not be liable for the ultimate legality of such transactions nor will Two Plus Two be held responsible for any potential loss or harm to its members as a result of such transaction.

|||I can’t play today . Playing in a live tourney. I will put up a $1 bounty on Ice though. If you knock him out before the money, post in this thread and I will ship when I get home. I wonder if putting bounties on soft targets is a leak?

|||Slow day at the SHANOOBIGANS office. 4 fishies regged. Kick off in 10 minutes.

|||Results:

1: mikes007
2: wafflehouse1
bubble: bubblebee

Same time next week. Don;t be shy.

|||who is she?

|||Emma Frain

Posted on October 30th, 2011 at 5:10 PM by admin

Grabbed by Holdem Manager
NL Holdem $0.05(BB) Replayer
SB ($7.85)
BB ($2.10)
UTG ($3.55)
UTG+1 ($2.58)
Hero ($6.38)
BTN ($5)

Dealt to Hero K K

fold, fold, Hero raises to $0.15, BTN raises to $0.50, fold, fold, Hero calls $0.35

FLOP ($1.07) Q A 3

Hero bets $0.51, BTN calls $0.51

TURN ($2.09) Q A 3 7

Hero checks, BTN bets $1.05, Hero folds

BTN wins $1.99

Villain playing 31/19 3bet 14.3 over 26 hands AF1.7

Bet bigger on flop? what about a second barrel? I’m pretty pissed how i played this hand.

I didn’t 4bet cause villain had been 3betting pretty light and i’m pretty sure he would have folded. Is this wrong thinking?

|||26 hands is like nothing.

4bet for the love of god!!! No need to get tricky at 5NL. If he 3 bets you light, there’s a chance he might think you make a play at him because of his loose image, or whatever, and bluff-shove. But if he folds, picking up his 10 bbs is a pretty decent result as well.

|||I rearly slowplay KK esp OOP, I was thinking if the A didn’t hit then villain would have bet all streets but I guess you’re right.
As played??

|||If you absolutely must slowplay, the rule of thumb is the more vulnerable your hand is, the less inclined you should be to slowplay. Aces are fine because your only risk is that the villain flops a monster. KK is much more problematic, because of ace high flops. Even if the villain doesn’t have Ax he can often take the pot from you. Or you may end up paying him off. QQ is obviosly even worse.

There is time and place to slowplay KK and QQ like this, but you need the right dynamics, some history on the villain/good read. Otherwise, just default to ABC.

As played, I certainly do not get carried away. The villain is unknown for all we know. If you bet bigger on the flop and follow it by a second barrel, is it a bluff or for value? If you do not know the answer to this question, you are playing blind, you are just making a random play, which is never good. If you had a decent read, you could have a clearer idea, but here you don’t. It’s a really tough spot. That’s why you should avoid these situations in the first place.

So the bottom line is 4bet.

As played in this situation, I’d personally c/c the flop (mainly to induce a bluff) and c/f the turn (to a decent bet). If the villain checks behind on the flop, bet the turn for value.

|||Thanks a ton =)

|||Actually if I were going to pick a hand I’d rather slowplay pre-flop I would pick KK over AA. The reason is that AA does much better than KK against AK. Not getting all-in pre-flop with AA when our opponent has AK is a disaster …. but it’s not as bad when we have KK ….

277,393,248 games 0.328 secs 845,711,121 games/sec

Board:
Dead:

equity win tie pots won pots tied
Hand 0: 83.430% 81.32% 02.11% 225577944 5849934.00 { AA }
Hand 1: 16.570% 14.46% 02.11% 40115436 5849934.00 { JJ+, AKs, AKo }

277,393,248 games 0.297 secs 933,984,000 games/sec

Board:
Dead:

equity win tie pots won pots tied
Hand 0: 62.601% 60.55% 02.05% 167969868 5680134.00 { KK }
Hand 1: 37.399% 35.35% 02.05% 98063112 5680134.00 { JJ+, AKs, AKo }

As you can see our equity with AA vs. a pretty normal pre-flop stack off range for our opponent is SO much better than our equity vs. that range with KK. Not getting it in pre-flop with AA is much more of a disaster than not getting it in with KK.

That said I’d generally 4bet KK pre-flop here.

As played I’d probably check/call the flop and go from there.

|||Call was fine, it’s no huge deal either way though being oop should make you more inclined to 4 bet. Your donk was problematic but not necessarily bad. When you donk you’ll tend to get floated or raised a lot with air so to donk and then check fold is pretty odd. I’d probably call as played but I’d pretty much be checking the flop every time.

|||Quote:Originally Posted by Lego05Actually if I were going to pick a hand I’d rather slowplay pre-flop I would pick KK over AA. The reason is that AA does much better than KK against AK. Not getting all-in pre-flop with AA when our opponent has AK is a disaster …. but it’s not as bad when we have KK ….

277,393,248 games 0.328 secs 845,711,121 games/sec

Board:
Dead:

equity win tie pots won pots tied
Hand 0: 83.430% 81.32% 02.11% 225577944 5849934.00 { AA }
Hand 1: 16.570% 14.46% 02.11% 40115436 5849934.00 { JJ+, AKs, AKo }

277,393,248 games 0.297 secs 933,984,000 games/sec

Board:
Dead:

equity win tie pots won pots tied
Hand 0: 62.601% 60.55% 02.05% 167969868 5680134.00 { KK }
Hand 1: 37.399% 35.35% 02.05% 98063112 5680134.00 { JJ+, AKs, AKo }

As you can see our equity with AA vs. a pretty normal pre-flop stack off range for our opponent is SO much better than our equity vs. that range with KK. Not getting it in pre-flop with AA is much more of a disaster than not getting it in with KK.

That said I’d generally 4bet KK pre-flop here.

As played I’d probably check/call the flop and go from there.Isn’t this simplifying the problem a bit? It doesn’t take into account the times where an ace flops or turns and you fold the best hand or lose value from a worse hand.

|||Lego, I certainly respect someone with 17k+ posts, but your analysis is only (partially) correct if the villain actually has AK, JJ+. And partially because it is still a disaster if we do not get KK all in pre agianst that range.

|||Villain 3bets with a certain range. He’ll stack off with some of that range. We may want to slowplay some strong hands if a good part of his 3bet range is hands he wouldn’t stack off with and would instead fold to a 4bet.

AA does a LOT better than KK does vs. the part of the 3betting range that villain will stack off with. Therefore, I’d rather slowplay KK since getting AA all-in pre-flop is worth a bunch more than getting KK all-in pre-flop is worth.

|||Why bet the flop and then check the turn? Also bet bigger on the flop – 75c or so.

|||Quote:Originally Posted by Lego05Villain 3bets with a certain range. He’ll stack off with some of that range. We may want to slowplay some strong hands if a good part of his 3bet range is hands he wouldn’t stack off with and would instead fold to a 4bet.

AA does a LOT better than KK does vs. the part of the 3betting range that villain will stack off with. Therefore, I’d rather slowplay KK since getting AA all-in pre-flop is worth a bunch more than getting KK all-in pre-flop is worth.Ok, let me give you a different scenario. Suppose you flop a set. Would you rather slowplay it

1. on a dry board (where your equity against villain’s range is huge and there are virtually no scare cards for you on the turn and river)

2. or on a very wet board (where your equity is smaller and there are plenty of scare cards for you that can come on later streets)?

If your answer in this case is 1, why you reverse your reasoning with AA vs. KK pre?

|||Quote:Originally Posted by therightdealWhy bet the flop and then check the turn? Also bet bigger on the flop – 75c or so.I was taking 1 stab at the pot, folding to any resistance. At the time I figured if villian calls 51c he would call 75c, plus doing this for pot control. If villains turn bet was small I might have called.

My turn check was just begging villain to take the pot away from me, anyone fire a second barrel here? Or just give up?

Again, I admit the hand was poorly played, hence the thread.

|||why on earth r u betting flop

|||Quote:Originally Posted by 1847 in Norwaywhy on earth r u betting flopBecause I suck at poker

Posted on October 30th, 2011 at 3:48 PM by admin

Let’s say we have the following situation:

NL10

BTN: $12.02
SB: $10.22
Hero (BB): $10.02
UTG: $3.33
MP: $10.59
CO: $12.25

SB posts SB $0.05, BB posts BB $0.10

Pre Flop: ($0.15) Hero has XX

1 fold, MP calls 0.10, CO calls 0.10, BTN raises to 0.50, Hero raises to 1.7-ish

BTN is semi-decent tagish player, limpers are fish

Which cards would we play this way?

Obviously it depends on the villains but do we have some general spots where we would raise here? I’m not talking about the obvious top value range but more lighter range, either polarized or not.

Can we play KQs this way? BTN gives us credit for 3betting oop and since his isolating range can be pretty wide, he will fold pretty often and we can reisolate one of the fish who’s holding QJ, KT or similar hand.

What about SC’s? Baby aces?
What about when we’re OTB and we’re 3betting a CO who raises to two limpers?

Maybe there’s a sticky somewhere on this, or maybe someone can provide some discussion about this. Thanks.

I assume this reisolating thing is pretty basic and not a huge moneymaker at NL10 but I’d still like to know.

|||How wide is he raising and how often will he fold to a 3-bet? How does he play post-flop? Vs some you can 3-bet them a lot and vs others you need a solid hand.

|||On a table with at least two fish and a semi-decent tag why do you want target the TAG? Raising here will push out the fish and you’ll end up either re-stealing from the TAG or playing OOP against your least preferred opponent.

|||Your question is pretty wide so I’ll break down the answers.

Quote:Originally Posted by ixionLet’s say we have the following situation:

NL10

BTN: $12.02
SB: $10.22
Hero (BB): $10.02
UTG: $3.33
MP: $10.59
CO: $12.25

SB posts SB $0.05, BB posts BB $0.10

Pre Flop: ($0.15) Hero has XX

1 fold, MP calls 0.10, CO calls 0.10, BTN raises to 0.50, Hero raises to 1.7-ish

BTN is semi-decent tagish player, limpers are fish

Which cards would we play this way?

Obviously it depends on the villains but do we have some general spots where we would raise here? I’m not talking about the obvious top value range but more lighter range, either polarized or not.

You need to have some stats on the villain, knowing how often he raises and how often he folds to 3bets is key here.

Can we play KQs this way? BTN gives us credit for 3betting oop and since his isolating range can be pretty wide, he will fold pretty often and we can reisolate one of the fish who’s holding QJ, KT or similar hand.

You do have some blockers when you 3bet with a hand like KQ here, but you need to be careful to pick the right spots since you will be playing OOP. It would be good to have some reads on your villain, like how often he calls/folds to Cbets and how he generally plays postflop.

What about SC’s? Baby aces?

SCs are great for light 3betting as the hands you can make are much more unpredictable. Baby aces is a similar story to the KQ, except you only have one blocker here which is is the ace. This means that even if you were to hit the flop with a hand like A5 or KQ, you will still need to be very careful because you could easily be behinds villain’s range, and playing TPNK on a 3bet pot OOP is rather tricky, maybe too tricky for 10NL

What about when we’re OTB and we’re 3betting a CO who raises to two limpers?

This is a MUCH better spot. Here you have positional advantage over villain and there is much more dead money on the pot from the two limpers.

Maybe there’s a sticky somewhere on this, or maybe someone can provide some discussion about this. Thanks.

I assume this reisolating thing is pretty basic and not a huge moneymaker at NL10 but I’d still like to know.

You are right, it is not a huge moneymaker at NL10, but it is not bad to exploit some regs every once in a while. If you see someone who is playing 23/21 with 90% fold to 3bets over a 150+ sample, then that would be a good spot for you to do this.

|||This is called squeezing, and is a more advanced type of play. Obviously isolation has its benefits, and when the BTN does this he WILL show up with good hands from time to time, so dont just go squeezing people every chance you get. It’s also a somewhat obvious play from the blinds, and I’m sure villain is aware you might be doing this, since clearly he is trying to exploit players too. If you abuse it he can just start 4betting you.

If you think villain is going to fold most of the time then squeeze with any two. You’re trying to exploit him, not actually get to a flop with any real equity. If you think villain will probably call a lot, then you need an understanding of his calling range. If he’s the type of person to call with AT and KJ type hands, then 3bet him with suited connectors and PP’s.

If you think villain himself is a bit fishy and that you can go for value on the flop with a pair of kings or something, then polarize your range to hands like KQ and AT yourself, and bet for value if you hit and watch out for draws/setmining.

|||^^ you should never squeeze with any two, no matter how often the "punisher of limpers" folds to 3bets

the reason is that there are still limpers to act who are probably simply loose fish and therefore there is always a chance they will call our squeeze raise, and we don’t want to see a flop against them with a junk hand OOP. The probability of this situation arising is totally contrary to the optimal strategy we should employ at the micros (play good hands vs fish and play them preferably IP)

Squeezing too light is generally not the best idea, IMO. I’d rather fold many suited connectors and most dominated broadways in this spot than squeeze with them

|||TAGs and fish call too many 3 bets generally to make this a profitable move at 10nl.

|||FWIW, this isn’t a squeeze. A squeeze is when you 3bet with a cold caller (or multiple cold callers) between you and the PFR.

OP’s hand is just, well, a 3bet. It’s just a small variation on the resteal.

|||I’d rather do it from the button.

|||Quote:Originally Posted by blame_hofmannFWIW, this isn’t a squeeze. A squeeze is when you 3bet with a cold caller (or multiple cold callers) between you and the PFR.

OP’s hand is just, well, a 3bet. It’s just a small variation on the resteal.Yes, technically. But all these semantics don’t matter much when the situation is illustrated by HH in OP and everyone knows what we are talking about

|||If you see a Villain repeatedly raising limpers w/e position then start 3 betting light against him to take all the dead money in the pot. Or you could set up traps by limping yourself with premiums QQ+ and coming over the top when he attempts to iso.

|||Quote:Originally Posted by MostDefIf you see a Villain repeatedly raising limpers w/e position then start 3 betting light against him to take all the dead money in the pot.That only works if you know he is capable of folding. You also need to be sure the fish is capable of folding, which he probably isn’t. Inflating a pot out of position against a fish and a TAG probably isn’t a good idea.

Quote:Originally Posted by MostDefOr you could set up traps by limping yourself with premiums QQ+ and coming over the top when he attempts to iso.No. That probably worked 20 years ago, but it is really transparent.

|||Quote:Originally Posted by mojo6911

No. That probably worked 20 years ago, but it is really transparent.Then do it w/ a weak hand!

|||if you are doing it for value bigger hands are needed. if you are teaching him not to fool with you or to slow him down anything goes when you think he is weak. also raising alot gets the point across that you will make him give up his raises.

October 30

Hey guys!
Posted on October 30th, 2011 at 3:42 PM by admin

im new to 2+2 i’ve been browsing the forums for a couple months and i like the community so i made an account. i didn’t see a section for newcomers or anything so im posting in the beginner forums. i have not won any significant money playing poker but i believe im one of the best (dont they all.) im 22, been playing home games and such since i was 13, i am very good at math and understood poker much more quickly then my friends (who are smart.) ive been planning on being a poker pro since high school but my goal was always to do it live (hated online poker), preferably tournament poker. my first trip to a casino was in michigan when i was 19 and i quickly learned low stakes tournies are rigged and hardly profitable so my next goal was to start at 1/2 open tables. after researching this i learned about variance and found i would not be comfortable playing with a bankroll under 8000 for 1/2. ive been trying to save this up every since working crappy jobs but it is tough since im a college student (engineering, graduating in a year,) with a softcore addiction to marijuana since there is virtually no chance of me saving up 8000 bucks (before getting an engineering job) i decided i should definately take a stab at online poker with about 1000 bucks playing microstakes with tracking software and such. i think im going to start at carbon poker (merge) and try to get a rakeback deal and poker tracker 3 and if im the truth ill make it right?! nice to meet you all i dont expect anyone in their right mind to read this. first post.

|||"Rigged" has a much different meaning than "unbeatable because of rake". If that is not what you meant, would you care to further explain what you mean by those live tournaments being rigged?

|||Quote:Originally Posted by CremeDeLaKrem
but i believe im one of the best

understood poker much more quickly then my friends (who are smart.)

low stakes tournies are rigged <<<<<.^ really ?

|||lol GL

and welcome to the forum

|||This is a great first post!

|||Welcome to the Forums.

Quote:a softcore addiction to marijuanaPot commitment takes on a whole new meaning.

Sorry. Couldn’t resist.

Good Luck.

EDIT: Don’t forget to give HEM a try before you buy PT3. Just a suggestion.

|||thx for comments and the HEM suggestion! ill agree with you guys looking back, "rigged" is a horrible word to use. i meant that the lower stakes tournaments seemed to take such a large pecentage of the money pool that profit made from the game would be minimal.

|||Yo, tbh I’d just recommend saving up for a live roll if you’re American. Online poker is pretty crap right now in the USA, I doubt there’s many fish around given how only the small sites are available and that’s where all the US regs moved to after BF.

|||Quote:Originally Posted by CremeDeLaKremim new to 2+2 …. im 22 … i am very good at math and understood poker much more quickly then my friends (who are smart.) …… with a softcore addiction to marijuana ……. since there is virtually no chance of me saving up 8000 bucks ……. nice to meet you all i dont expect anyone in their right mind to read this. first post.Actually I have a B.S. in Engineering, so this made lots of sense to me. And like DD points out, you can have fun with the standard jokes like "stealing the pot" and "pot influenced decisions" "pot betting" or even "pot odds" is fun.

I worked up a small spreadsheet, and found that if you reduce the expenditure for cannabis your BR will build at 30% higher rate giving you that target BR in 6 months less time.

Welcome to the forum and GL

Oh and I second the HEM recommendation!

|||i am american.. and i prefer live poker but the lowest limits in casinos is usually 1/2 and im so broke i cant afford that. does anyone else recommend live over online? from my understanding i would have to spend a lot more time playing live over online to make the same profti because of less hands, higher rake, rakeback, travel (45 mins to nearest casino for me.) im not too worried about whether or not im playing fish im confident in my ability enough to hang with the regs.. shouldn’t traffic be skyrocketing on sites like merge, bodog, and cake, the remaining "major" u.s. sites?? or did america just give up on internet poker and either move/convert to live?

|||"The more I learn, the more I realize how little I know."

|||Quote:Originally Posted by CremeDeLaKremi am american.. and i prefer live poker but the lowest limits in casinos is usually 1/2 and im so broke i cant afford that. does anyone else recommend live over online? from my understanding i would have to spend a lot more time playing live over online to make the same profti because of less hands, higher rake, rakeback, travel (45 mins to nearest casino for me.) im not too worried about whether or not im playing fish im confident in my ability enough to hang with the regs.. shouldn’t traffic be skyrocketing on sites like merge, bodog, and cake, the remaining "major" u.s. sites?? or did america just give up on internet poker and either move/convert to live?I just have to say make sure you don’t put money online you can’t afford.. As people on Full tilt know, now a days online isn’t a safe place.

|||As far as I know, merge still isnt accepting new US signups.
HEM > PT3
I would wait just awhile before depositing on another site besides merge in case they reopen. Bodog is ok, but software is tilting. A sportsbook on cake made a mistake, and then took all the money a player legally won from the player who was mistakenly credited. ($60K, hasnt been given back to the best of my knowledge, someone feel free to correct me if they fixed this). Minted poker is ok, but the traffic sucks from what I hear.

Best of luck with whatever you decide to do, and welcome!

|||Quote:Originally Posted by Lord_Crispen"The more I learn, the more I realize how little I know."Omg , this ! Good luck to you op , but I just wanted to say that your probably not as good as you think you are . Never stop trying to improve your game . As soon as you think you have it down , something you never knew you didn’t know will blow your mind

Posted on October 30th, 2011 at 2:15 PM by admin

GO BUY HEM PRO NOW.

Had no idea how good this program was; it has brought my game to a new level and makes decisions SO much easier once you understand everything.

It completely transforms your game.

If you want to be a winning player and really learn and improve. INVEST in it.

I say invest, because it is an investment and you will see a HUGE return.

Honestly, once you have it; you won’t understand how you survived without it before.

That is all, folks.

|||But I have PT3??

It doesn;t transform your game; you transform your game with the assistance that a tracker provides.

|||Quote:Originally Posted by bumblebee99But I have PT3??

It doesn;t transform your game; you transform your game with the assistance that a tracker provides.You’re not really a beginner tho I am a beginner, kinda

|||Or just wait for HEM 2.

|||Quote:Originally Posted by bumblebee99But I have PT3??

It doesn;t transform your game; you transform your game with the assistance that a tracker provides.This is true.

Either way, it has helped me a ton.

|||Quote:Originally Posted by RedGladiatorYou’re not really a beginner tho I am a beginner, kinda Well yeah

Spoiler:
I still suck tho

I know the OP is being super helpful, but he just needs to expand on why it has helped him so much otherwise it’s a pointless thread.

Sorry, I was just being sarky initially OP.

|||Quote:Originally Posted by spimp13Or just wait for HEM 2.Why wait? Buy now free upgrade when it comes anyways

|||Ok, well in general…using the HUD has helped me achieve the stats I desire, whilst using other opponents tendencies against them.

I use to color code and take notes on player. But, really these stats are far more superior [obviously].

You know when you can call a LAG for value, make easy folds against the nits; note taking and color coding just isn’t optimal for multitabling.

By having this information at hand it was easy to get the value of the program in a couple of hours.

It also helped me become aware of a positional leak [too loose too early] and close the gap between VPIP and PFR.

|||Quote:Originally Posted by ThisnameWhy wait? Buy now free upgrade when it comes anywaysCan you confirm this? I thought they had not settled on pricing yet.

|||Quote:Originally Posted by ThisnameWhy wait? Buy now free upgrade when it comes anywaysI did not know that, good stuff. What is the ETA on HEM 2 btw?

|||Quote:Originally Posted by bumblebee99 but he just needs to expand on why it has helped him so much otherwise it’s a pointless thread.
Agreed.
Well buying either PT3 or HEM now you will get a free upgrade to PT4 or HEM2 respectively.
I’m gutted I purchased my HEM so early now, I bought it around march but didn’t even deposit real money till end of april so I missed the cut for the free upgrade

|||Confirmed – But only for buying NOW or after May 1st 2011 – Sorry if I got hopes up for some there. I did mean just buy NOW and free upgrade not anyone who has HM1. HEM2 is pretty close to being released reading the holdem forums post below.

http://www.pokersoftware.com/article…manager-2.html

and

http://forums.holdemmanager.com/rele…-2-beta-5.html

|||Quote:Originally Posted by RedGladiatorAgreed.
Well buying either PT3 or HEM now you will get a free upgrade to PT4 or HEM2 respectively.
I’m gutted I purchased my HEM so early now, I bought it around march but didn’t even deposit real money till end of april so I missed the cut for the free upgrade You should get a discounted upgrade price though, consider it a chop.

|||HEM is the nizzles

|||Quote:Originally Posted by jdawg91HEM is the nizzlesthis

The EV of having HEM since before the qualifying period is way more than the free/discounted upgrade saving imo

Posted on October 30th, 2011 at 1:38 PM by admin

I have been playing poker for 3,4 years.

First 2 years, i just play for fun, didn’t really understand much of the game. Don’t even understand what is 3-bet, c-bet….. But I won a lot of games in these days.

After than, I really started to learn this game. Reading about all the strategies, math. And that is the time I start losing.

I tried to read ppl’s hand, tried to think what my opponents think what I have and use all the things l learned in the games. However, I am losing even more…

Do any one have the same experience? What is wrong with this and how to get out of the losing?

|||How many hands have you now been losing over, and how many hands did you previously win over? Unless its up in the 50k+ range, its probably variance. You can run good for 15k+ hands while playing bad and think the whole time that you are a poker whiz.

|||A lot of people have this experience. What it usually boils down to is that you didnt really have that much volume during the beginning, so your perception of doing well is skewed. Now that you have been playing longer it is natural for your bottom line to even out. You are more aware of this than before because you have been studying the game, so it appears as though you are now losing because of it. What you need to do is just keep studying even more, and recognize that you were probably just a fish on a heater when you started, and that you MUST study even harder now to overcome this before you become a consistent loser.

|||A lot of possible answers:
- samplesize of winning period too small (heater),
- skewed memories/no real bookkeeping/just remember winning – but in reality loosing even in the beginning
- feeling of entitlement leading to tilt
- missapplication of new strategies (fancy play syndrome)
- Games are getting tougher

Similar thread in NVG: "view : i think strat killed my poker game"

|||Quote:Originally Posted by javiA lot of people have this experience. What it usually boils down to is that you didnt really have that much volume during the beginning, so your perception of doing well is skewed. Now that you have been playing longer it is natural for your bottom line to even out. You are more aware of this than before because you have been studying the game, so it appears as though you are now losing because of it. What you need to do is just keep studying even more, and recognize that you were probably just a fish on a heater when you started, and that you MUST study even harder now to overcome this before you become a consistent loser.thanks! that makes a lot of sense. Also, can you recommend me some books given my situation?

|||thanks everybody for sharing their thoughts~

|||Quote:Originally Posted by mark5907thanks! that makes a lot of sense. Also, can you recommend me some books given my situation?Depends how you want to start out. Do you mostly play cash games? Do you mostly play live or online? Which would you rather play?

For cash game specialists just starting out I would read Harrington on Cash volume 1 & 2. He has a book devoted to online cash games which I havent read so I dont know if it’s any good or not. Even though a lot of his cash game theory is somewhat basic, it’s still great for beginners looking to build the mental framework necessary for understanding how people play, and why you should bet or check certain hands vs certain players, like top pair or draws.

Then I would read The Poker Blueprint. There is going to be a lot of advanced concepts but dont worry about it, just read it, try to soak it in, and you’ll remember some of it in tough spots later. This book will give you an idea of how you should play certain board textures.

Finally I would finish with Let There Be Range. This book will open your mind and take you to the next level of understanding how your opponents think. It’s a good sequel to the Harrington books but you need some experience before applying this knowledge.

Read them, read them twice. Skim them, speed read, I dont care, just get some pages into your memory banks. It will come back to you when you need it. It will take at least a year for all the information in these books to begin to accumulate in your brain and mesh together well. So dont beat yourself up when you feel you dont understand any of it, or that nothing you read about is actually happening on the tables. It takes hundreds of thousands of hands before those mental synapses in your brain make the proper connections to correlate between everything you’ve read and experienced.

|||Quote:Originally Posted by javiDepends how you want to start out. Do you mostly play cash games? Do you mostly play live or online? Which would you rather play? ….
I mainly play 1/2 live cash games.
Thanks again for the information, i will definitely check out those books!

|||Quote:Originally Posted by Palikari- feeling of entitlement leading to tiltThis. Times a squillion.

When you first start playing you simply don’t know how bad some plays are. Either made by you or an opponent. You often have little idea why or how you’ve won or lost a pot.

There isn’t the "I’ve played so good but fish are getting lucky, oh whats the fooking point I might as well play like a massive spaz at stakes I can’t afford" thought.

You don’t think about it all.

Thankfully once you get past this stage of rage, and remove the emotion and feelings of entitlement, you actually re-enter the original phase, but due to the knowledge that long term you’ll win, rather than through your original ignorant bliss.

Can’t stress enough how stuff like running, meditation, yoga etc can help. Anything to clear your mind of illogical thought.

|||Just to add to Javi’s recommendations,

Small Stakes No Limit Hold Em

Helped me a lot.

|||Quote:Originally Posted by mark5907I mainly play 1/2 live cash games.
Thanks again for the information, i will definitely check out those books!Harrington has a specific chapter devoted directly towards fishy live games, where people overbet preflop, underbet postflop, and make horrible calls drawing to backdoor straights and "fullhouse draws". I cant remember if it’s in volume 1 or 2, but it will give you some optimal betting patterns like making 10x preflop raises and blasting full pot into your opponents for value. Go to your locak bookstore and memorize that chapter, will help immensely with your live game.